The Barn, the latest Evanston project from Amy Morton, is open and ready for visitors — if you can find it. Though the restaurant has an address on Church Street, good luck spotting the entrance from the sidewalk. You have to walk down an alley and turn left before you’ll see a door. Open it, and even then a thick curtain obstructs your view. But peek through, and you’re suddenly in the midst of a brick-adorned restaurant with soft light and 20-foot high ceilings. Though she has the pedigree, Morton is adamant that The Barn is not a steakhouse. There are three steaks on the menu, but you can also get bison bolognese and a za’atar roasted half-chicken, among other non-beef entrees. Morton believes the restaurant’s dishes strike a balance, showing off chef Nicole Pederson’s classic French background but also offering some lighter options. That’s most apparent on the menu’s appetizer list, where you’ll find warm king crab and golden beet nage and a little gem and baby romaine salad tossed tableside.
